Yanapaccha – Alpamayo

It is the gem of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Ever since it was first climbed in 1951, alpinists have been flocking to attempt its fluted Southwest Face. Many fledgling high altitude climbers consider this peak a culmination of their early climbing careers. It has often been named by climbers, magazines, and trekkers, “the most beautiful mountain in the world”. Alpamayo deserves these accolades. Summit day consists of 1,500 feet (450 meters) of perfect two-tooled ice and neve (styrofoam-like snow) climbing on a flawless fluted face. You know you are close to reaching the top when you begin to see light through the face from the other side. And on a good year, you can actually top out on the summit ridge, with one foot dangling down each of its almost vertical faces. Getting to this point requires hard work and solid mountaineering and ice climbing skills. Before reaching the famed summit face we must approach over 25 kilometers (15+ miles), place two lower camps, and carry heavy packs filled with climbing equipment and food over 4,000 feet (1,219 meters) of moraine, scree, and steep glaciated terrain.

Trip Information of Alpamayo

Grade: D/ difficult snow and ice climbing

Length: 6/7 Days

Route: SW – French Direct

Season:  June – August

Trip Information of Yanapaccha

Grade: AD- / some steep climbing

Length: 2 Days

Route:  W face

Season: May – September