Max Altitude

6034

Difficulty

Fairly Hard

Tour Distance

6034m

Tour Season

May to october

Urus – Ishinca – Tocllaraju

The Tocllaraju expedition takes you to one of the biggest and most spectacular mountains in the Cordillera Blanca. The mountain stands an incredible 6,034m high. However, Tocllaraju is unique as it’s one of the few mountains in the world where you can reach heights of over 6,000m. All that is required is a good level of fitness and the mental resilience to climb mountains. If you are yet to experience high altitude climbing, the Tocllaraju expedition is for you! The trailhead is located in the small village of Pashpa. After a steady 5-6-hour hike, you will arrive at the base camp. This is located at the head of the beautiful Ischinca Valley. The first climb for the Tollaraju expedition is Urus Este. You will ascend the east ridge to its 5,495m summit. This is a tough, rocky uphill climb. However, it is a short climb and a great peak for acclimatization. Urus Este’s summit gives you spectacular views of Tocllaraju. The latter dominates the whole landscape. Although, there are many other beautiful snow-covered mountains scattered around the Cordillera Blanca. Following your climb of Urus, Ishinca (5,530m) is your next mountain. This is the perfect preparation for Tocllaraju. It is a longer climb and has a higher summit than Urus. You do not want to burn out! Therefore, a rest-day follows Urus and Ishinca. This is a welcome pause before ascending to Tocllaraju’s high camp. Rest days at the base camp are included in all our itineraries. They are crucial to successfully reaching the summit of Tocllaraju. Base camps don’t get much better than Tocllarajus. The area has a beautiful creek, mountains in every direction, and one of the clearest starlit skies you’ll ever see. Every year we put together numerous set and customized expeditions to Tocllaraju.

Trip Information of Ishinca

Grade: PD
Length: 3 Days
Route: NE ridge (up) SE (down)
Best Season: May – September

Trip Information of urus

Grade: PD
Length: 3 Days
Route: SW FACE
Best Season: May – September

Trip Information of tocllaraju

Grade: AD
Length: 4 Days
Route: W Ridge
Best Season: Mid May – September

DAY

PROGRAM

Day 1

Huaraz 3100m. / Ishinca base camp 4350m.

Day 2

Base camp 4350m. / Urus summit 5495m. / Base camp 4350m

Day 3

Base camp 4350m. / Ishinca summit 5530m. / Base camp 4350m.

Day 4

Day off

Day 5

Base camp 4350m. / Tocllaraju moraine camp 5000m.

Day 6

Moraine camp 5000m. / Tocllaraju summit 6034m. / Base camp 4350m.

Day 7

Base camp 4350. / Huaraz 3100m.

ITINERARY

DAY 1

HUARAZ 3100m/ COCHAPAMPA 4600m/ ISHINCA BASE CAMP 4350m

Today we leave the city of Huaraz toward the north and down to the Callejón de Huaylas (also known as the Santa Valley) to the village of Paltay. We continue on an unpaved route to Pashpa, on to the small Lake Cochapampa 3600m. Here is where our local team of mule drivers waits for us. It is a 90 minute trip from Huaraz to Paltay. We then have a tranquil climb through the Ishinca Valley to our camp, near Refugio Ishinca. 4-5 hours.

DAY 2

BASE CAMP 4350/ URUS SUMMIT 5495 / BASE CAMP 4350

Ascents of the west face of Urus. A sloped route takes us to a ridge, crossing large rocks on the moraine until we reach the glacier. We climb over the snow and ice for an hour; then the last 50 minutes to the summit is easier over the moraine. A steep descent to camp. 7 hours.

DAY 3

BASE CAMP 4350m/ ISHINCA SUMMIT 5530m/ BASE CAMP 4350m.

A continuous climb on a good trail and then over the moraine to the glacier. The climb on the glacier is not steep, except for the last 50 meters to the summit. However, in some years, depending on the conditions at the glacier, there can be some steep sections or hard ice, Return via the same trail to Base Camp. 10-12 hours.

DAY 4

DAY OFF

Today we have the entire day free. If participants have any questions about use of technical climbing equipment, today is a good day to practice. Overnight again in Base Camp.

DAY 5

BASE CAMP 4350m / TOCLLARAJU MORAINE CAMP 5000m

About mid-day, after lunch, we begin the ascent via a steep moraine to the edge of the glacier. From this point we can see Tocllaraju (6,032 m), very near. We’ll set up our high camp on the moraine. Hiking time: 4-5 hours.

DAY 6

MORAINE CAMP 5000m / TOCLLARAJU SUMMIT 6034/ BASE CAMP 4350m

Summit Day! Summit day! After a very early breakfast, we proceed over the glacier to the northwest ridge of the peak. Because the glacier changes from year to year, the technical ice climbing is also different from year to year. We might find small walls of ice, up to 60 degree surfaces. The summit ridge is secured with fixed ropes. From the 6000+ meter peak, the view opens on the entire Cordillera Blanca. Descend to Base Camp. At noon we return to Moraine Camp and continue to Base Camp. Some 10-12 hours today.

DAY 7

BASE CAMP 4350m / HUARAZ 3100m

After breakfast we leave at 8 am for an easy return walk to Pashpa. Today burros will be carrying our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with queñuales trees (Polylepis spp.), native to the high Andes. Here our private transport will be waiting.

Included in the Tour

Pre climbing Briefing.

Professional mountain guide certified by IFMGA: English, Spanish and Quechua speaking.

An aspiring mountain guide IFMGA. English, Spanish and Quechua speaking, for more than two clients

Mountain porters

Private transport of approaching and returning from all the expedition.

Entrance fee to the Huascaran national park

Food during the expedition (breakfast , lunch , box lunch, reception and dinner ) we have option for vegetarian people

Camping equipment: mountaineering four season tents (2 persons)

Mess tent

Kitchen stuff: stove, kitchen utensils, chairs, table and others

Donkey drivers and donkeys

First aid kit

Mountain cook.

Rope

Snow pickets

NOT Included in the Tour

International flights to Lima / Peru round trip

Personal equipment

Food in the city

Hotel in Lima

Taxis in cities

Hotel and lodging in Huaraz

Travel, life or baggage insurance

Unexpected expenses as when a participant leaves the group during the scheduled days

Additional beverages or meals in villages

Tip

A daypack for your walking and climbing to bring personal gear, camera, and light stuff (35 liters)
Rain gear (water and windproof jacket and pants)
Hiking boots
Climbing boots recommendable for six thousand meters to Tocllaraju
Warm clothes (jacket, fleeces, gloves, thermal clothing underneath, and down jacket)
Sleeping bag resistant up to -15 degrees Celsius
Sleeping pad
Headlamp (2 extra batteries)
Definitely camera
Cap or hat to protect yourself from sun heat, cold or rain
Sunscreen
Lipstick
Bottle or thermos (1 liter or more)
Small Personal first aid kit with medicines that often use
Pair of walking poles necessary for the hike
Two technical ice axes
One harness
A couple of carabiners
Crampons
A helmet
Gaiters
Sunglasses
A belay device.