Max Altitude

5530m.

Difficulty

Moderate

Tour Distance

5530m.m

Tour Season

May to October

Ranrapalca north face and Tocllaraju west face

ISHINCA 5530m. It is a great climb for those looking to get acclimatized before going on to bigger things.

Grade: PD.
Route: Ascent North East, descent South East.
Time: 3 to 4 hours from high camp

RANRAPALCA 6112m. (North face). It is a long face with steep snow and and ice, capped by a short rock band, descending the north east face will complete a great tour of the mountain.

Grade: D +
Route: West face
Time: 8 – 10 hours

TOCLLARAJU 6034m. (West face) The west face of Tocllaraju to climb a beautiful smooth, high angle face for over 600m, follow by steep snow up the final ridge to a perfect summit. They don’t get much better.

Grade: D +
Route: West face
Time: 2 hours from moraine camp to bottom of face, 8 – 10 hours from bottom of face to summit

DAY

PROGRAM

Day 1

Huaraz 3100m. / Pashpa 3600m / Ishinca Base camp 4350m

Day 2

Ishinca BC 4350m/ Ishinca summit 5530m / Ishinca BC 4350m

Day 3

Ishinca Base camp / Ranrapalca moraine camp 5200m

Day 4

Ranrapalca camp 5200 m / Ranrapalca Summit 6112m / Ranrapalca camp

Day 5

Ranrapalca camp 5200m / Ishinca BC 4350m

Day 6

Ishinca BC, rest day

Day 7

Base camp 4350m / tocllaraju moraine camp 5000m

Day 8

Tocllaraju moraine camp 5000m / tocllaraju summit 6032m / Base camp

Day 9

Extra summit day

Day 10

Base camp / trek out to Huaraz

ITINERARY

DAY 1

Huaraz 3100m/ Cochapampa 4600m/ Ishinca Base Camp 4350m

Today we leave the city of Huaraz toward the north and down to the Callejón de Huaylas (also known as the Santa Valley) to the village of Paltay. We continue on an unpaved route to Pashpa, on to the small Lake Cochapampa 3600m. Here is where our local team of mule drivers waits for us. It is a 90 minute trip from Huaraz to Paltay. We then have a tranquil climb through the Ishinca Valley to our camp, near Refugio Ishinca. 4-5 hours.

DAY 2

Base Camp 4350m/ Ishinca Summit 5530m/ Base Camp 4350m.

A continuous climb on a good trail and then over the moraine to the glacier. The climb on the glacier is not steep, except for the last 50 meters to the summit. However, in some years, depending on the conditions at the glacier, there can be some steep sections or hard ice, Return via the same trail to Base Camp. 10-12 hours.

DAY 3

Ishinca BC 4350m / Ranrapalca Moraine camp 5,200m

This day we will ascend in direction below of the Ranrapalca north face (5,200 a.s.l.), which lies between the Ranrapalca and Ishinca mountains. We will continue hiking uphill through easy ramps and avoiding cracks. We will finally reach the safe place, where we will set up our camp. The elevation gain of the day will be 850m meters and total ascent duration is 6 hours approx.

DAY 4

Ranrapalca camp 5,200m/ Ranrapalca summit 6112m/ Ranrapalca camp.

Start the climb on 45 degree snow, once you have gained the bottom of the face, the route goes straight up for about 300m, across the the ice face ( 50 degrees for the first 100 m, and then 45degrees) that forms the lower half of the north face, climb the hourglass color (50 degrees), and take the obvious direct line up the face ( 60 to 70 degrees of snow ) for about 600m, toward the summit rock band, set up a belay beneath the summit rock band, climb the rock band to the summit. Descend the northeast slopes route, 14 to 15 hours climbing and descent in total.

DAY 5

Ranrapalca camp 5,200m / Ishinca BC 4350m

We pack all the gear and we return to ishinca Base camp.

DAY 6

Base camp – rest day.

Rest day in the base camp

DAY 7

Base camp 4350m / Tocllaraju moraine camp 5000m.

About 10 o clock, after breakfast, we begin the ascent via a steep moraine to the edge of the glacier. From this point we can see Tocllaraju west face, very near. We’ll set up our high camp on the moraine.

DAY 8

Tocllaraju moraine camp 5000m / Tocllaraju summit 6032m / Base camp.

Start your climb early from camp, hike up the glacier as you would to reach the northwest ridge. About halfway to the ridge, leave the trail and head up to the right. Toward the bottom of the face. Climb from 55 to 70 degree snow and ice, right of the mixed ground of the in the middle of the face, 8 – 9 pitches. Find a way through the summit by via the south ridge, descend the North West ridge. 13 to 14 hours in total.

DAY 9

Extra summit Day.

This day can be used in any of the mountains, when the weather gets bad on the planed days of the summit

DAY 10

Base camp / trek out to Huaraz.

After breakfast we leave at 8 am for an easy return walk to Pashpa. Today burros will be carrying our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with queñuales trees (Polylepis spp.), native to the high Andes. Our private transport will be waiting for us

Included in the Tour

Pre climbing Briefing.

Professional mountain guide certified by IFMGA - UIAGM: English, Spanish and Quechua speaking for all the expedition.

1 mountain porter – cook for all the expedition.

Private transport of approaching and returning from the expedition

Entrance fee to the Huascaran national park for 21 days

Food during the expedition (breakfast, lunch , box lunch, reception and dinner ) we have option for vegetarian people

Camping equipment: mountaineering four season tent (the north face/ mountain 25)

Mess tent

Kitchen stuff: stove, kitchen utensils, chairs, table and others on the base camps

Donkey drivers and donkeys to Ishinca until the base camp (IN/OUT)

First aid kit

Ropes

Snow pickets

Ice screws

NOT Included in the Tour

Personal equipment

Food in the city

Hotel and lodging in Huaraz

Travel, life or baggage insurance

Unexpected expenses as when a participant leaves the group during the scheduled days

Additional beverages or meals in villages

Tips

A daypack for your walking and climbing to bring personal gear, camera, (45 liters)
Rain gear (water and windproof jacket and pants)
Hiking boots
Climbing boots recommendable for six thousand meters
Warm clothes (jacket, fleeces, gloves, thermal clothing underneath, and down jacket)
Sleeping bag resistant up to -15 degrees Celsius
Sleeping pad
Headlamp (2 extra batteries)
Definitely camera
Cap or hat to protect yourself from sun heat, cold or rain
Sunscreen
Lipstick
bottle or thermos (1 litter or more)
Small Personal first aid kit with medicines that often use
Pair of walking poles necessary for the hike
Two technical ice axes
Harness
Carabiners
Good Crampons
A helmet
Gaiters
Sunglasses
A belay device
Some slings