Huascaran – Tocllaraju – Ishinca

Huascarán is the largest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca. It is also the fourth highest in the western hemisphere. As a result, the Huascarán expedition is not for the faint-hearted. If you’re looking to attempt to conquer Peru’s largest mountain you’ll need a high level of fitness, mental toughness, and experience. If you are one of the few who can accomplish mastering the summit, the rewards are clear. Huascarán offers a panoramic view of the wondrous Cordillera Blanca. You’ll have a feeling of true accomplishment at overcoming a mountain so few can. After a few days of acclimatizing around Huaraz, your climbing begins in the Ishinca Valley. At 5,530m Ishinca’s northwest face serves as a perfect non-technical warm-up climb. Following this you will take on the ascent of neighbouring Tocllaraju’s northwest ridge. This climb will help you gain further acclimatisation at altitude. Furthermore, it will test your mountaineering skills on more exposed and technically challenging terrain. After you have conquered these two peaks, you will have a rest day to recover before climbing Huascaran. The Huascarán expedition is unique amongst trips in the Cordillera Blanca in that it requires several high camps. These help you acclimatize along the way and give you the best chance of reaching the summit. Firstly, you’ll journey from the town of Musho up to the base camp with the assistance of pack animals. Then, it’s onward to your first glacier climb at 5,100m. After that, you’ll go through the ‘throat’ of the mountain. This will lead you to the final camp on the mountain. The 6,000m camp is situated in the col between the northern and southern summit. Two summit days are permitted to allow for inclement weather and tired climbers. However, the views from the summit of the Huascarán expedition will keep you energized and focused!

Trip Information of Ishinca.

Grade: PD
Length: 3 Days
Route: NE ridge (up) SE (down)
Best Season: May – September

Trip Information of Tocllaraju.

Grade: AD
Length:  4 Dyas
Route:  W Ridge
Best Season: Mid May – September

Trip Information of Huascaran.

Grade: AD
Length: 6 Days
Route: NW Face
Best Season: Mid June – August