Artesonraju

The South East face of the mountain: it is one of the most beautiful snow and ice pyramids in the Cordillera Blanca. This Southeast Face Route is one of the classic Andean climbs; it demands good ice climbing technique, as it involves climbing at about 50-60 degrees for well over 900 vertical meters, with some pitches at 65 degrees. At the end of the dry season a bergschrund can make problematic the last section of the climb. The route is rated (D) and was climbed the first time on the 24 June 1969 by K. Schreckenbach, H. Saler and K. Sussmilch. Usually there are some other climbers with you in the camps, but it never gets too crowded. The approach along the Laguna de Paron is a highlight in itself, and the middle camp among the trees is one of the most pleasant campsites you can find in the area.

The North Ridge of the mountain has been made famous by Paramount Picture’s logo, Artesonraju´s North Ridge (alpine D) is one of the most classic routes on the range, and makes for a worth while climb if you´re in the Santa Cruz valley for Alpamayo or Quitaraju. From moraine camp, a 20 minute walk leads you to the entrance of the glacier. Glacier itself varies a lot from year to year, but expect to encounter traga-hombres and moderate steep ice from the beginning. Glacier is usually entered from the right, a long traverse leads you to a short and steep, 80 degree step. From there traverse diagonally to the right at about 60 degrees, cross some crevasses, another traverse to the left and finally, gain the 240 m wall at about 70 degrees snow and ice. 4 pitches and you reach the summit ridge, and about 30 minutes on exposed ridge lead you tot he summit. Descend the same route.

Note: These itineraries are designed as an addition to another trip or can accept participants who have completed other climbs in the area during the season.  Artesonraju is a technical summit requiring previous experience with climbing systems and vertical ascents & descents. All participants will be screened before approval onto the trips. There is no acclimatization period included in these itineraries section. You must be well acclimatized prior to the start date.